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All you need to know about investing in luxury watches

Financial institutions are increasingly recognising the liquidity and reliable valuation of luxury watches.

From Rolex to Patek Philippe, the intricate craftsmanship and attention to detail in luxury watches set them apart as both status symbols and alternative investments. The growing demand for these timepieces, particularly in regions like the Middle East, has heightened interest among high-net-worth individuals and investors, creating a significant supply-demand imbalance, especially for Swiss brands like Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe.

Luxury watches offer a compelling case for alternative investment. Given their low correlation with traditional financial markets, they diversify portfolios and act as a hedge against market volatility. They also deliver impressive returns—between 2017 and 2022, the Watch Market Price Index outperformed gold by four times and silver by 13 times. A standout example is a Patek Philippe timepiece, which yielded a remarkable 207% return on investment during this period.

These timepieces are tangible, portable assets that combine emotional and functional value. Whether worn or displayed, they offer the dual benefits of aesthetic appeal and practicality. Additionally, their mobility and ease of storage make them a convenient investment option, with the flexibility to convert into cash when needed.

Financial institutions are increasingly recognising the liquidity and reliable valuation of luxury watches. Many now offer credit lines using hard luxury assets as collateral, allowing investors to leverage their collections for business cash flow, acquisitions, or other financial needs. This growing acceptance emphasises the evolving role of luxury watches as a sophisticated investment vehicle.

How to identify a valuable watch

Vinovest, an alternative investing platform, outlines six factors that determine the value of a watch:

  • Scarcity: A limited edition or rare watch often commands higher value in the secondary market. When demand exceeds supply, the value of the watch appreciates. For example, a Patek Philippe watch, known for its craftsmanship and the fact that it takes about eight years to produce, is highly sought-after and commands premium prices due to its scarcity.
  • Authenticity: To secure high returns on investment, it is crucial to buy only authentic watches. Whether new or pre-owned, all parts of the watch must be genuine. For pre-owned watches, ensure that any replacements or repairs have used original parts to maintain the integrity and value of the timepiece.
  • Brand: The brand of the watch plays a critical role in determining its long-term value. Top-tier brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Omega are known to hold their value over time. Similarly, independent watchmakers like Philippe Dufour and F.P. Journe, though lesser-known, are celebrated for their exceptional craftsmanship, making their watches valuable assets.
  • Material: The materials used in constructing the watch add to its value. Watches that feature unique materials, such as stainless steel, titanium, or those classified as “complicated” due to special features like split-second timers or perpetual calendars, tend to command higher prices because of the complex engineering involved.
  • Age and condition: The age and condition of a watch greatly influence its value. Vintage watches, particularly those from well-known brands and in excellent condition, often outperform newer models. For example, a pre-owned Paul Newman Daytona reference 6239 from 1968 sold for over $300,000, highlighting the investment potential of older, well-maintained watches.
  • Fashion trends and design: The design and the watch’s association with current fashion trends can also affect its value. Watches that gain prominence due to celebrity endorsement or feature in major fashion events can see a temporary spike in value. However, trends may fade, so it is important to consider long-term market demand.

Pros and cons of investing in luxury watches

Pros

  • Stable in economic crises: Watches are often less volatile than stocks. For instance, during the pandemic in 2022, luxury watch values dropped by 8%, while the S&P 500 fell by 19%.
  • Profitable hobby: High-end watches appreciate in value over time. Watches priced over $100,000 tend to appreciate by 69% every decade.
  • Portable asset: Luxury watches are small, easily transportable assets that can be stored securely.

Cons

  • Limited liquidity: Selling certain watches, especially lesser-known models, can take time, and selling through brokers often incurs significant fees.
  • Counterfeit risk: The market is saturated with counterfeit watches, so careful research is essential to avoid costly mistakes.

Steps for investing in luxury watches

London-based Global Boutique, a pre-owned luxury watch retailer, suggests these steps to guide investors:

  1. Research the market: Begin by researching luxury watch brands, models, and materials. Understanding the market allows you to identify potential investment opportunities in both established and newer models.
  2. Create a watch list: Based on your research, make a list of watches and models that align with your investment goals. This helps focus your search on promising watches.
  3. Find trustworthy resellers: Seek out reliable resellers, whether dealers, auction houses, or authorized sellers, to ensure you are purchasing authentic watches with proper documentation.
  4. Monitor the market: Keep an eye on trends, demand, and pricing to identify when a particular model might become a good investment opportunity.
  5. Make a purchase: Once you find a watch that fits your criteria, decide whether to buy online or in-store. Ensure that you understand the condition and maintenance history of the watch before purchasing.
  6. Track price development: After purchasing, monitor the market performance of your watch by tracking resale values, auction results, and overall market trends.
  7. Sell at the right time: Use your understanding of the market and advice from experts to determine the best time to sell your watch for maximum profit.

Best watches to invest in

High-end watches offer an exclusive investment route. Prestigious brands, including Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, lead this category. Below are the watches that offer significant investment returns. Known for their craftsmanship and rarity, they’re prized in investment portfolios.

  • Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari ($1,888,000)
  • Rolex Submariner ($95,010)
  • Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin ($86,471)
  • Patek Philippe 5205G ($60,976)
  • Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch ($26,421)
  • Rolex Daytona ($21,673)
  • Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller ($18,225)
  • Rolex GMT Master II ($15,214)
  • Omega Seamaster Diver 300M ($6,194)
  • Tudor Black Bay ($3,820)