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Exclusive: How Phoebe Gates and Sophia Kianni are pushing circular commerce to challenge fast fashion

Phoebe Gates and Sophia Kianni turn resale into an opportunity, merging sustainability while redefining retail as a profitable, ethical ecosystem.

Sophia Kianni and Phoebe Gates
Sophia Kianni, Phoebe Gates at the Stella McCartney X Adidas Party at the Henson Recording Studio in Los Angeles. Credit: Shutterstock

For decades, consumer culture has rewarded accumulation. Fast fashion chains churn out endless racks of $10 shirts, and one-click checkout makes shopping feel effortless. 

The result? Closets full of clothes we barely wear, and an economy that thrives on the hedonic treadmill of endless consumption. What’s left behind is more than just clutter; it’s capital tied up in depreciating assets. 

What if the future of shopping wasn’t about buying more, but about buying smarter?

Part of this change is Phoebe Gates and Sophia Kianni, a reproductive rights advocate and a climate activist. Their startup, Phia, was born out of a shared frustration with the inefficiency of sustainable shopping and a conviction that the resale market could be both a climate solution and an alternative investment opportunity.

In a conversation with Finance Middle East, the founders explained how their platform “turns the challenge of sustainable shopping into an opportunity for real savings and real impact,” illustrating how innovation, technology, and conscious consumerism can integrate to reshape not only the future of retail but also to rethink the value of consumption and what it means.

Investing in the future of retail

Where do fast fashion items end up after being discarded? Most don’t get recycled. Often stained or torn, they arrive in massive bundles at Kantamanto Market, the largest secondhand clothing market in the world, spanning 18 to 24 acres in the heart of Ghana’s capital. Vendors pick through the piles to then hang up the better pieces in their small, adjoining stalls while struggling to manage what can’t be sold.

This underscores why investing in the future of retail is so important: to build systems that are more sustainable, responsible, and supportive.

The resale and recommerce market isn’t just about sustainability; it’s also a financial opportunity. For investors, the rising demand for sustainable shopping is a rare convergence of ethics and economic opportunity. 

Consumers are increasingly evaluating not just the price of what they buy, but the value they can retain through resale, repair, or repurposing. In the Middle East alone, online retail still accounts for a smaller share of the market, at an estimated 2-3% compared with 10-15% in developed Western economies, yet that share is growing quickly.

This cycle is emblematic of a broader problem, which is the cycle: acquire, store, discard reflecting what some see as the tyranny of consumerism, a system that encourages perpetual spending without meaningful return. But Gen Z entrepreneurs are building the platforms that make that exchange possible, almost like applying surrealist principles to retail itself, reimagining the ordinary and revealing hidden value in what was once overlooked within the retail innovation landscape and making it more sustainable.

Redefining resale: how Phia turns circular commerce into opportunity

Phoebe Gates and Sophia Kianni, co-founders and co-CEOs of Phia, are reimagining how consumers shop sustainably while creating new investment opportunities in circular retail. The genesis of their idea grew with a simple question: why should fashion come at the cost of sustainability and whether technology could bridge the gap between them. The co-founders met as roommates at Stanford, where Kianni studied pre-law and Gates pursued pre-med.

Sophia Kianni

Sophia Kianni, a 2023 Forbes 30 Under 30 honoree, founded Climate Cardinals at just 17 years old, the world’s largest youth-led climate nonprofit with 16,000 volunteers in more than 80 countries. This youth nonprofit helps combat climate change by translating critical climate information from English to over 100+ languages.

Her passion for environmental advocacy was shaped early on by witnessing her family in the Middle East endure temperatures rising at more than twice the global average. Kianni’s dedication to climate action has also led her to become the youngest US United Nations (UN) advisor in history. Kianni, at just 18 years old, was invited by António Guterres (secretary-general of the United Nations) to represent the US as the youngest member of the inaugural UN Youth Advisory Group on issues surrounding climate change, and she currently lends her expertise to and is part of UNICEF’s Next Gen Advisory Board. 

Bill Gates and Phoebe Gates

Phoebe Gates, a women’s health advocate and the youngest daughter of Bill Gates, has worked with organisations such as Reproductive Freedom for All (RFFA), which named her its 2024 “Rising Reproductive Freedom Champion,” and also brings firsthand experience from the fashion industry through her internship at British Vogue.

She has also participated in global health initiatives, including attending the United Nations General Assembly and interning with Partners In Health in Rwanda. Like Kianni, she was frustrated by the inefficiencies of secondhand shopping, which she considered a critical barrier to scaling sustainable consumption.

Phia is an app that taps into the circular economy, positioning resale not as a fallback but as a driver of innovation. By incentivised participation in resale, the platform seeks to ameliorate the waste that has long been treated as an inevitable byproduct of consumerism. They are backed by angel investors and advisors like Kris Jenner, Desiree Gruber, Sara Blakely. Phia is also expanding beyond fashion into electronics, collectibles, and lifestyle goods, tangentially redefining commerce for a generation that turns what others overlook into opportunity.

Founders share their vision: Phoebe Gates and Sophia Kianni

In an exclusive interview with Finance Middle East, Phoebe Gates and Sophia Kianni shared the philosophy behind their platform, Phia. “Phia empowers users to save money, time, and the planet. We make it easy to find exactly what you want from top resale sites, at a fraction of the price, while cutting your carbon footprint by up to 80%,” they said.  

The founders see Phia as more than a shopping tool, it’s a way to rethink consumption entirely. By aggregating listings from over 40,000 resale sites, Phia allows users to compare options instantly, “It’s like Google Flights for fashion” Kianni had said to us. The analogy captures the platform’s essence: it’s about convenience, efficiency, and putting the control into the hands of the consumer.

But the impact goes beyond just saving money. “Our mobile browser extension makes it simple to shop smarter, faster, and more sustainably, all while aligning your purchases with your values,” the founders added.

Every item purchased through Phia represents a conscious choice, a small but measurable step toward reducing waste and cutting carbon emissions. For Gen Z consumers, who increasingly consider ethics alongside efficiency, this dual benefit of savings and sustainability resonates deeply.

Phia’s approach also reframes the economics of resale. What was once seen as a secondary market for thrift has become a data-driven opportunity for investment-minded consumers. For Gates and Kianni, this intersection of ethics and efficiency proves that retail innovation can be profitable without compromising environmental goals. “Phia turns the challenge of sustainable shopping into an opportunity for real savings and real impact,” they said, emphasising the platform’s commitment to reducing environmental impact while helping users save money.

For the founders, it’s proof that something as important as environmental consciousness and financial literacy can coexist and even reinforce each other.

Sustainable retail through technology

Today, technology and data are transforming sustainable retail from a niche market into a scalable and data-driven financial ecosystem. Machine learning and artificial intelligence allow platforms and startups to forecast demand and leverage blockchain technology in the process. These technologies translate consumer behaviour into measurable insights, allowing investors to interpret market trends, optimise capital, and reduce risk. In short, sustainable retail is today a profitable, predictable, and scalable financial opportunity.

According to Deloitte’s 2024 Global Retail Outlook report that 62% of retailers view sustainability not just as a responsibility, but as a strategic avenue to drive higher

Additionally, social media virality and influencer-driven trends are known to amplify engagement, but what’s different when it comes to retail innovation?

It’s how these cultural trends directly feed into predictive analytics. TikTok, podcasts, and Substack newsletters are all platforms that create a coalition of communities and subcultures whose preferences and insights form a network effect. In real time, rather than in the course of campaigns, these platforms provide feedback that directs inventory, pricing, and product launch strategy, rendering social influence a measurable driver of growth in the ecosystem of retail innovation.

The rise of circular commerce

Circular commerce is gaining momentum globally, driven by growing awareness of sustainability and the urgent need to reconceptualise traditional consumption patterns. This economic model primarily aims to minimise waste and maximise resource efficiency by keeping products, materials, and resources in perpetual circulation, reducing the environmental footprint of our purchases.

Gen Z and millennials are representative of this shift, particularly in the fashion and retail industry. For many, shopping second-hand is seen as practical. It’s seen that globally, a significant proportion of consumers plan to buy used goods in 2024, and many have already bought or sold second-hand or refurbished items in the past year. Shoppers seem to recognise fast fashion as environmentally detrimental and often linked to ethical delinquency, while re-commerce is seen as a way to improve the planet’s health.

Beyond individual action, Gen Z entrepreneurs and innovators are shaping the future of circular commerce by creating platforms, technologies, and marketplaces that make sustainable consumption scalable and financially viable. These startups are not just offering alternatives for conscientious consumers; they are also challenging large companies and conglomerates to be accountable for the environmental and social impact of their operations. By driving systemic change alongside personal choices, these innovators are helping to ensure that circular commerce becomes a cornerstone of responsible, future-facing economies.